Men’s underwear PDF patterns

PDF patterns for men’s underwear: sew boxer shorts and briefs tailored to your measurements

Sewing your own men’s underwear is, above all, a question of fit. Standard sizes vary from one brand to another by 3 to 5 cm around the hips, and inseams that are too short or too long remain a common issue with mass-produced underwear. A PDF pattern that you can print at home solves this problem for just a few euros’ worth of fabric and around two hours of sewing. Simple, quick, and the result holds up just as well in the wash as the original.

Why sew your own men’s underwear rather than buying it

Price often comes up in conversation, but it isn’t the strongest argument. A pair of homemade boxer shorts made from 180 g/m² cotton jersey costs around €3 to €5 for the fabric, compared to €8 to €15 in a supermarket for comparable quality. The real argument is the fit. A PDF pattern allows you to work directly from your own measurements: waist circumference, hip circumference, and crotch depth. Men whose measurements fall outside the standard sizes M, L and XL – particularly those with an atypical waist-to-hip ratio – will find that sewing offers a solution they won’t find on the high street.

The other practical advantage is the choice of fabric. In shops, underwear sold as ‘cotton’ often contains 5–10 per cent elastane and has undergone chemical antibacterial treatments. Sewing your own allows you to choose a 100% organic cotton jersey certified by OEKO-TEX, a softer, temperature-regulating bamboo jersey, or a 200 g/m² modal fabric for the winter months.

Choosing the right fabric for a men’s boxer shorts or briefs pattern

All men’s underwear patterns are designed for knitted fabrics: single jersey with at least 50 per cent horizontal stretch, stretch cotton jersey, modal or bamboo jersey. A stiff woven jersey will not work. The cut takes into account the fabric’s elastic recovery to ensure support and freedom of movement. Always check the stretch before buying: the fabric must stretch to at least 150 per cent of its at-rest length across the width.

For boxer shorts, a jersey weighing 160 to 180 g/m² is the ideal range. Light enough not to make you overheat, yet sturdy enough to retain its shape after 50 washes at 40 °C. For briefs with a structured front pocket, opt for a firmer jersey, around 200 g/m². The waistband elastic is just as important as the fabric: a 20 mm braided elastic holds up better than a flat elastic and does not twist in the wash.

Equipment and techniques specific to sewing knits

Sewing jersey requires a few adjustments compared to traditional woven fabric. Firstly, the needle: use a jersey needle (ball point) in size 75/11 or 80/12 for stretch cotton. A standard needle creates micro-perforations that cause snags in the fabric when it is under tension. On a straight-stitch sewing machine, select the stretch stitch or a zigzag set to width 3 and length 1.5 to ensure the seams do not break when the fabric stretches.

An overlocker remains the most effective way to join the pieces: it cuts, overlocks and sews in a single pass using a stitch that stretches naturally. If you don’t have one, an elastic stitch on a standard machine is sufficient for a simple pair of boxer shorts. The elastic waistband can be fitted either using the ‘sandwich’ method (where the elastic is slipped into a sewn-in fabric fold) or sewn directly onto the right side using a zigzag stitch – a quicker method that is just as strong once you’ve got the hang of it.

Print and assemble a PDF pattern for men’s underwear

PDF patterns are available to download immediately after purchase and are printed on standard A4 paper. Each file includes a calibration page with a 10 cm square: print this first and measure it before continuing. If your printer resizes the pages, the ‘fit to page’ option must be disabled in the print settings. The pages are then joined together with tape at the numbered markings.

Most patterns in this category offer several sizes in the same file, ranging from S to 3XL depending on the designer. Take your measurements in your underwear for your hip and waist circumferences, then refer to the size chart for the relevant pattern. For underwear specifically, the hip measurement takes precedence over the waist measurement: the elastic will accommodate any excess at the waist, but the crotch and hips are less forgiving.

Completing your hand-sewn wardrobe

Once you’ve mastered underwear, moving on to outerwear is the next logical step. The men’s trouser patterns in the shop follow the same principles of taking measurements and making adjustments, but with more structured fabrics. You can also explore the men’s jumper patterns or the men’s T-shirt patterns to gradually build a complete wardrobe tailored to your exact measurements.

How does the level of difficulty differ between a men’s boxer shorts pattern and a men’s briefs pattern?

Boxer shorts are generally easier to make: fewer complex curves, no structured front pocket. Allow 1½ to 2 hours for your first pair of boxer shorts, and 2½ to 3 hours for briefs with front support. In both cases, fitting the waistband elastic is the only truly tricky technical step, and a test run on a scrap of fabric is all it takes to get the hang of it.

Can you use recycled fabric to sew men’s underwear?

Yes, provided the fabric still has sufficient elasticity. Test its stretch: if it stretches to more than 40 per cent of its original length across the width, it’s suitable. Old T-shirts made from fine cotton jersey (140 to 160 g/m²) work well for boxer shorts, but less so for briefs, which require a more stable fabric along the vertical axis.

How do you adjust the size if you’re between two sizes on the chart?

Choose the larger size and reduce the side seams by 0.5 to 1 cm on each side. It’s always easier to remove fabric than to add it. For underwear, the hip measurement is key: this determines which pattern size to choose, with the elastic handling any excess in the waist.

Do you absolutely need an overlocker to sew men’s boxer shorts or briefs?

No. A standard sewing machine is sufficient, using a stretch or zigzag stitch set to 3/1.5, a 75/11 jersey needle, and a moderate speed to avoid stretching the fabric under the presser foot. The finished result is visually less neat than with an overlocker but will last just as long provided the seams are properly overlocked.