Men’s trouser patterns

Men’s trouser patterns: choosing the right style and getting it right

Trousers are the most technically challenging item to make in men’s tailoring. Unlike a T-shirt or a jacket, all the difficulties are concentrated in one place: the crotch. The angle and depth of the crotch curve determine whether the trousers stay in place when sitting, whether the crotch seam pulls when walking, or whether the waist puckers at the front. The men’s trouser patterns available here have all been carefully developed with this specific point in mind, featuring curves tested on real body types, not just drawn with a ruler.

Which cut to choose depending on the intended use

A straight-leg chino in 240 g/m² cotton twill is cut differently from a pair of casual trousers in fleece or a pair of slim-fit trousers in stretch gabardine. The rise (the distance from the waist to the crotch) varies depending on the cut: high on classic straight-leg trousers for all-day comfort, lower on a casual or jogger style for maximum freedom of movement. This information is clearly indicated on the patterns in this selection, which helps avoid any unpleasant surprises after assembly.

For the office or smart-casual occasions, straight or slightly tapered cuts in gabardine (250 to 320 g/m²) or woollen flannel give the best results. For the weekend, 180–200 g/m² linen or cotton twill work well for relaxed, wide-leg styles. Corduroy, on the other hand, works better with straight-leg cuts than fitted ones: the texture of the fabric accentuates creases if the cut is too tight around the thigh.

Men’s trouser patterns for beginners: where to start

If you’re sewing your first pair of trousers, start with a style featuring a separate waistband and no piped pockets. Piped pockets (slits with flaps) require millimetre-precise work and remain a task in their own right, even for intermediate seamstresses. Italian pockets (set on the bias at the side) or patch pockets are much more straightforward and feature on most of the casual patterns in this collection.

The seam allowance to use on trousers is generally 1 cm for the crotch and side seams, and 1.5 cm for the waistband. Always check whether the seam allowances are included in the pattern or not: this is specified in the instructions, but it is the number one source of sizing errors among beginners.

Designers such as Le Papa de Jojo, who specialises in men’s pattern-making, or Lab Zéro provide detailed instructions with step-by-step assembly photos. This level of guidance makes all the difference when you’re tackling attaching a waistband or constructing a fly for the first time.

PDF format: A4, A0 or projection – which to choose

Patterns are available in three print formats. The A4 format can be printed on any home printer, but requires the sheets to be assembled (by gluing or stapling the numbered pages together). The A0 format is sent to an online printer for around 3 to 5 euros per sheet: you receive the pattern in full size, ready to cut out. The projection format is used with a ceiling-mounted video projector, without any printing at all. For a pair of trousers, where the pattern may measure 110 to 130 cm in length along the leg, the A0 and projection formats save a considerable amount of time on assembling the sheets.

The sizes covered generally range from 36 to 52–54 (chest measurements in French sizing), with measurement charts specifying waist, hip and inside leg measurements. On a pair of trousers, it is the inside leg measurement that most often requires manual adjustment: the patterns include length markings to lengthen or shorten the leg without disrupting the crotch curve.

• Chinos and straight-leg trousers: gabardine, cotton twill or twill 200–280 g/m², structured cut, suitable for intermediate sewers
• Casual trousers, joggers: fleece, heavy jersey or soft linen, rounded seams, suitable for beginners after a few attempts at straight seams
• Formal trousers: flannel, fine wool or stretch gabardine, high crotch, piped pockets recommended, advanced level

Complete the outfit: matching men’s patterns

A bespoke pair of trousers really comes into their own when paired with a shirt sewn with the same care. See the selection of men’s shirt patterns for fitted or loose-fitting styles, in poplin or chambray. For between-seasons, men’s jumper patterns and men’s coat patterns complete a wardrobe built piece by piece. The entire men’s range is brought together in the Men’s PDF Patterns collection.

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