PDF patterns for women’s underwear

PDF patterns for women’s underwear: sew your own made-to-measure lingerie

Sewing your own underwear solves a real problem that most women face: finding knickers or bras that take into account your waist, hip and inseam measurements. A difference of just 3 to 5 cm between these measurements and standard sizes is enough to make everyday wear uncomfortable. A PDF pattern for women’s underwear tailored to your exact measurements eliminates this problem at source, often at a material cost of less than 5 euros per item.

This category includes PDF patterns available for immediate download: high-waisted briefs, shorts, thongs, wireless bras and classic briefs. Each pattern is designed for stretch fabrics and comes with detailed instructions.

Which fabric to use for sewing women’s underwear in jersey or microfibre

The first decision to make before printing a pattern is the fabric. Underwear requires a minimum of 40 per cent stretch in both directions. In practical terms, this covers several types of fabric:

• Cotton jersey (95% cotton / 5% elastane): breathable, washable at 40°C, ideal for handmade cotton knickers for everyday wear. Opt for a weight of 160–200 g/m² for a good fit without stiffness.
• Microfibre (polyamide / elastane): smooth, resistant to pilling, suitable for close-fitting designs. Requires a size 70 or 75 jersey needle to prevent pulled stitches.
• Bamboo jersey: temperature-regulating, gentle on sensitive skin, but slippery when cutting. Pin the fabric every 5 cm before marking out.

Cotton velour and cotton interlock are common mistakes: they lack elasticity and will eventually cause the panels to warp after a few washes.

Understanding multi-size PDF formats for lingerie patterns

A PDF pattern for women’s briefs is generally available in two print formats: A4 for home printing (sheets to be assembled in a grid) or A0 for professional printing. Check the calibration page included in the file before cutting out: a 2% scale error on a size 40 pair of knickers shifts the inner thigh seams by 8 to 10 mm.

Multi-size patterns overlay several sizes on a single drawing, often ranging from size 34 to 52. Trace only your size before cutting, or trace onto tissue paper to keep the other sizes intact. The seam allowance is sometimes included, sometimes not: read the instructions before cutting. A seam allowance omitted at the crotch is difficult to rectify once the piece has been assembled.

Underwear sewing technique: overlocker or standard sewing machine

An overlocker gives the neatiest finish on stretch fabrics, but it isn’t essential. On a standard sewing machine, the narrow zigzag stitch (width 1.5 mm, length 1 mm) is suitable for the side seams. The stretch stitch or jersey stitch is preferable for the crotch, which is subject to the greatest tension. To attach the waistband elastic, the wide zigzag stitch (width 3–4 mm) remains the most reliable method.

The waistband elastic is 12 mm wide as standard for knickers; the leg elastic is 6 to 8 mm wide. These measurements are specified in the instructions for each pattern. Allow 30 to 50 cm of cotton jersey (150 cm wide) for knickers in sizes 38–42, and 20 to 30 cm of elastic per piece.

High-waisted knickers, shorty knickers, non-underwired bras: choosing your style

The high-waisted knickers to sew have been gaining popularity since 2022 because they don’t cut into the waist, which makes all the difference under a tight-fitting dress or high-waisted trousers. Shorty knickers are particularly suitable for H-shaped body types or for those who can’t stand elastic in the inner thighs.

The PDF patterns for non-underwired bras available here provide light to moderate support. For firm support, cup sizes C and above, look for patterns with reinforced bust panels and a lined underbust band available in our Lingerie category. Some bralettes in this collection can also be worn as lightweight sports crop tops; for pieces specifically designed for exercise with dynamic support structures, see the sports sewing patterns.

How long does it take to sew a pair of jersey briefs?

Three to five hours for your first few pieces, less than an hour once you’ve got the hang of the pattern. Simple knickers are suitable for advanced beginners: three main seams, inserting elastic – that’s all. Brassieres with multiple panels require an intermediate level, particularly for assembling the cups.

Are PDF patterns for underwear suitable for all body types?

Most patterns cover sizes 34 to 52. For body types outside standard sizes, manual grading is still necessary: adjust the inseam length first, as this is the measurement least likely to be standard in ready-to-wear clothing. Some designers, such as Fitiyoo or Les Patronnes, offer patterns designed for a wider range of sizes, complete with detailed adjustment instructions.

Can you print a PDF pattern without an A0 printer?

Yes. A4 patterns include numbered assembly marks that can be printed on any domestic printer. Always print the calibration page first and measure the test square before printing the rest of the file.

To complete a hand-sewn wardrobe, the Women’s Pyjama Patterns collection uses the same stretch jersey fabrics, and the Women’s Tops and T-Shirts coordinate naturally with the wireless bras in this category.